Finding the Yokohama Seasider Magazine
at our US library here in Japan gave my husband and I a jackpot
source of free information on local beer pubs. Discovering craft
brewers in new cities is always an adventure for us and we love it.
Yokohama felt like a good place to start because Tokyo's population
size and density still seems a bit daunting.
After reading up on Yokohama's craft
beer scene we set out this past Saturday on our pub crawl. With much
thanks to Google's incredible map app we successful navigated our way
through the train system to get there; granted there was only one
transfer but we'll take our victories, no matter how small, with
pride.
About halfway through the 45 minute
trip between Machida and Sakuragicho stations my Ikea radar went up
and I said to my husband, “I think the Ikea is around here.” He
suggested looking out for the sign but I was sure it would be further
from the tracks, out of viewing distance. How I forget that Ikea
builds their giant signs loud and proud – a few minutes later,
there it was. Ooh, how I look forward to that inevitable shopping
experience.
Yokohama (part of it). |
Once arriving at Sakuragicho station we
walked out into the city of Yokohama and it's beautiful day of
sunshine and temperatures slightly cooler than the recent 90 degrees.
Perfect beer weather. Between the magazine's easy-to-read map,
Google maps, and a friendly Japanese couple we found our way to
Yokohama Brewery. We sat downstairs at the small bar, there was an
enthusiastic private party occurring upstairs, and ordered sample
flights of the available beer. The bartender spoke English pretty
well, she had attended Cambridge in England and was now
preparing to study aviation at Western Michigan University this fall.
Small world – I graduated with my bachelors from Western!
Yokohama Brewery. |
We then walked a block down the street
to our next stop, Bashamichi Taproom which serves Baird Beer along
with American barbecue. Immediately upon entering the dark, lower
level bar the incredible scent of smoky BBQ stirs your appetite. A
server ushered us upstairs to the restaurant, decorated with old wood
floors, country-style tables and chairs, and a wall of windows
letting in the afternoon sunlight. We ordered flights with six of
their ten available brews. They also serve two beers on hand-pump
(or cask, as the term I'm familiar with) but we passed on those,
giving us an excuse to return. We couldn't resist the BBQ so we
ordered a couple small plates to enjoy with the beer.
Baird Beer Sampler. |
Let me just say, thank goodness I took
photos along our way or you wouldn't be reading much more. I didn't drink excessively, but alcohol certainly doesn't help my already poor
memory. Nor does it help when faced with the narrow, steep, and
uneven staircases in so many older, compact Japanese buildings. One
step at a time.
Bashamichi Taproom staircase. |
Following our loose-planned itinerary,
we walked west up the river to Bay Brewing, a tiny, local bar with
seating for fifteen, tops. We found two prime seats right at the
bar. They had two beers on tap that day, a brown ale and a stout,
and serve only half pints and pints so we ordered a pint of each.
One of the bartenders who spoke English told us proudly that he made
the stout. Through conversation we learned that he traveled
internationally finding craft beers, spending time on the west coast
from Vancouver BC, down through California and even Colorado. He
said there was too much pale ale there for his liking and is actually
planning on spending time in England soon learning to brew in the
British style. Thornbridge Brewery is what I wrote in my notes. We also spoke with a friendly couple sitting next to us, he speaking better English than she,
which helped us feel less like outsiders and more like any other
person enjoying a quality beer on a summer afternoon. We definitely
left there richer for the experience.
Bay Brewing with brewer. |
Attack cat. |
Down the block, across the street, and
on the fifth floor of a quiet building we stopped into Antenna America, an “American Craft Beer Tasting Room”. Tall, chair-less
tables filled half the fairly large space. On the opposite wall was
a sparse bar with a few beers on tap, nothing local, and the adjacent
wall held glass-front coolers filled with an impressive selection of
American craft brews.
Cases outside America Antenna. |
We spoke with an employee (owner, manager, I
don't remember) from the US asking him about local brew pubs. He
mentioned a great little place nearby, he knew the owner, but that we
would never find it on our own so he took the time to walk us over
there. Thank goodness because he was correct.
The street with El Nubi. |
The quiet street we walked down was
lined with small businesses in what almost resembled shipping
containers. And by small, I mean tiny. We ducked through the
doorway of El Nubichinom and shimmied into a room no bigger than a king-sized bed. My
husband stood behind the three people standing at the bar while I
found a spot next to the two women standing at the back by the
window looking over the river.
My beer at El Nubichinom. |
I believe there was a server, strange
because every person in the place was within reach of the bar. The
owner/bartender stood behind the bar with about four feet of space to
work. The atmosphere
felt relaxed with a subdued, joyous humor, if that even makes sense.
The beer was excellent, I had the incredible orange pale ale and hubs
fell in love with a saison from Atsugi Brewing (or this link). The owner
brings in kegs local craft brews, most are seasonal
and very limited, once the keg is empty he serves something different
or closes up for the day. We loved the place and made sure to drop a pin on
our map so we can find it again because we will find it again.
Kaji at El Nubi also serves unique, beer-friendly cheese! |
By this time the sun was beginning to
set and we were completely satisfied with our craft beer tour of
Yokohama, even though we only explored one part of the city. We
found our way back to Antenna America to purchase a few unfamiliar
bottles and carried them back to the train station.
Sunset sky over Yokohama. |
I don't remember
exactly how the following scene played out, but we got on one train
and needed to transfer at the next station. When we exited that
train and crossed the platform to board the next one I paused to read
the train line on the outside of the car and in doing so the doors
closed with my husband on the train and me still on the platform. I
remember laughing as the train pulled away, a perfect moment of “not
knowing whether to laugh or cry,” so I laughed. There I was, kind
of tipsy, going back and forth between Google Maps and the Japanese
train schedule. With some quick texting and fingers crossed I got on
the next train and when it stopped at the next station, he rejoined
me. Fortunately we didn't have to take an unexpected tour of the
Yokohama train line that night.
(These photos were taken with an iPhone and are by no means intended to
be "real" photos, just snapshots of where I was and what I saw.)